- PRESS RELEASE 3 - 1,400 word author interview
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- KLONDIKE ICE CREAM BOOK AUTHOR RECALLS HOW BAR GOT ITS START
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- The Klondike ice cream bar made an amazing rise in the 1980s to become America's best-selling ice cream novelty. First there was the "What Would You Do...?" jingle. Then the Famous Mouths commercials in which the camera pulled back from a mouth to reveal a celebrity spokesperson, Vanna White among them.
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- But the company that invented the Klondike, Isaly's [EYEZ-leez], had been making the bar for 60 years. More amazing, the company was much better known, albeit regionally, for its 400 pristine dairy stores.
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- Brian Butko, author of books on diners and the transcontinental Lincoln Highway, spent nine years researching Isaly's before recently publishing Klondikes, Chipped Ham, & Skyscraper Cones: The Story of Isaly's with Stackpole Books. Here he answers some commonly asked questions.
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- Q: Nine years is a long time to research a company. What was so important about this one?
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- BUTKO: Isaly's story perfectly captures the trends of the past century. William Isaly began 100 years ago by selling his milk door-to-door; today's Klondike is owned by a huge corporation, made in factories, and marketed and sold nationally. More importantly, the Isaly family were special people. My favorite quote is by Henry Isaly: "Let's give the profits to the customers, not the stockholders."
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- Q: But there are lots of companies that succeeded through customer service....
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- BUTKO: Yes, but very few of today's companies can trace their lineage back a full century, plus Isaly's also changed markedly in that time. From the first milk route grew 11 dairy plants serving 400 dairy stores, mostly in Ohio and western Pennsylvania. The stores were extremely popular and are still fondly remembered. The Klondike was just a small part of that, and in fact, Isaly's chipped ham and Skyscraper cones were much better known.
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- Q: What are those?
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- BUTKO: Chipped ham refers to the way pressed or chopped ham is sliced: razor-thin, which helps bring out the flavor. Skyscraper cones were made with a special long scoop which actually "cut" the ice cream out of the can. It was the same amount as a round-top cone, but it was so tall, it looked like you were getting a lot more.
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- The Klondike can be traced back to a 1922 news story which said it came in six flavors. Two of the most interesting are grape and maple! Klondikes were on a stick like its competitor, the Good Humor bar. Novelties were the rage then, mostly inspired by the Eskimo Pie.
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- Q: Four hundred stores is a lot. What accounted for the company's rapid rise?
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- BUTKO: Isaly's concentrated on low prices and high-turnover merchandise, all on a cash basis. The Isaly family then plowed the profits back into expansion and the most modern equipment. This built tremendous goodwill among both suppliers and customers.
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- They could have grown even quicker, as every town in the region wanted an Isaly's by then, but the Isalys were conservative. Samuel Isaly said things like, "We won't put ourselves in a position where we are so widespread that we can't know exactly what is going on in all our stores at all times."
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- Q: How did the employees feel about the company?
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- Workers were held to high standards. Most companies don't push their workers to excel for fear of rebellion, but Isaly's realized how a drive for excellence instilled pride in the workers. Former employees regularly attribute their success in life to the values learned at Isaly's.
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- Q: With so many stores, they probably knew they could grow with the company....
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- BUTKO: Isaly's always promoted from within. For a long time they even used numbered badges, where a worker aimed for badge number one - store manager. From there, you entered regional management. But it was a friendly competition, because workers knew the next opportunity might be theirs.
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- Q: Was Isaly's simply in the right place at the right time?
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- BUTKO: No, there was an awful lot of work behind their "luck." Their whole system of owning the plants and the stores was unique to the dairy industry. The emphasis on value made customers return. And really, the Isaly family systemetized everything.
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- Stores, for example, were laid out logically. Up front were the dairy and deli products - typically the slowest moving - but many impulse buys were made by customers heading to the ice cream counter in the middle. The cafeteria was at the back so there was no through traffic. The store was a study in efficiency long before McDonald's brought order to the restaurant business.
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- Q: So why do we have McDonald's in every town instead of Isaly's?
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- BUTKO: The company was swept by the trends of the 20th century, so just as the thrift of the Depression bouyed the company's fortunes, the postwar boom found it struggling to compete. By 1960, Isaly's ideas and infrastructure were getting old. The company was building in suburban strip malls, but by then, customers wanted drive-in restaurants and supermarkets.
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- Q: It sounds like they could have become the first mini-mart chain....
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- BUTKO: That's right, but by the 1960s, the company was being run by the third generation of Isalys. Not only were they different people with different visions, but where there had been one founder with four sons, now there were four times that many cousins involved. And that's just the immediate family.
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- Different ideas were tried, one being a restaurant chain called Sweet William. They were on the cutting edge of family sit-down restaurants. But it was hard to let go of the stores that that had worked for so long, and it's only easy now to look back and second guess.
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- Q: What did the family do?
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- BUTKO: After years of disagreements, the family sold to an investor group in 1972. With the stores and factories looking shabby, the Klondike seemed a natural course to outsiders: one factory can make thousands of bars for grocery chains a lot cheaper than selling them though stores with the high overhead of labor, rent, and inventory.
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- Q: So the Klondike went national then?
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- BUTKO: It wasn't until the Clabir Corporation purchased the company in 1977 that expansion began. First it was just to Philadelphia, then the east coast. After success in Florida, the bar swept the country in the 1980s, mostly by using food brokers who get products into supermarkets. Instead of fighting the competition - supermarkets - Isaly's joined them.
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- Q: At the expense of its own stores....
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- BUTKO: Right. Perhaps the hardest part for locals was the closing of Isaly's stores. The stores were losing a lot of money by then, plus as the steel industry suffered in the 1970s and '80s, so did Isaly's.
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- Q: So the stores have all closed?
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- BUTKO: No, the plan wasn't to close them all, just the unprofitable ones. They were eventually sold off so that there are now two companies: one making Klondikes and one licensing stores. About 10 stores remain, though only a few look like the beloved old ones.
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- The "stores" company has also heeded the call of supermarkets and now markets chipped ham, barbecue sauce, cheese, ice cream, and other products with the Isaly's name, though the Isaly's plants closed long ago.
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- Q: What about the Klondike company?
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- BUTKO: The Isaly's name came off the Klondike 10 years ago when Unilever purchased the company. Unilever is one of the world's largest consumer products companies, and had already owned Sealtest. Since then, it bought Good Humor, Breyers, and most recently, Ben & Jerry's.
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- Q: Klondike is a best seller?
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- BUTKO: Klondike is America's best selling ice cream novelty because it's made in so many forms now - about a dozen flavors, plus cones and sandwiches. And I think the foil wrapper - a holdover from when bars were wrapped by hand - conveys distinctiveness in a crowded field.
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- Q: So Klondike's history plays an important part in its marketing?
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- BUTKO: Maybe not consciously, but yes, the brand always strove to be the best. The old store workers still have a reverence for the family and company. One last story about Henry Isaly can explain why - during a strike at the dairy plant, Henry went out to the picket line and invited the workers inside. "Go ahead and take anything perishable," he told them. "We may be on different sides, but this thing will be settled someday. Keep an eye on my building, it's still your home and always will be." That's both smart and prudent, and that sums up Isaly's.
- Klondikes, Chipped Ham, and Skyscraper Cones: The Story of Isaly's, published by Stackpole Books, is available at all bookstores and online booksellers.
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- An accompanying exhibit at the Pittsburgh Regional History Center recounts the company and Klondike's evolution.
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- Butko has also written about the Lincoln Highway and diners. You can learn more about his three books, all published by Stackpole, at http://www.brianbutko.com
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